These photos came with a single quote from the brand: “Undercover returns to the brand’s roots with Pre-Collection. With a focus on developing ‘Undercover-esque’ looks, overarching seasonal themes are replaced in favor of contemporary wear for everyday life.” No further explanation is needed, or at least that’s the suggestion.

For his resort men’s lineup, Jun Takahashi kept that promise: There are no complex themes, no particular fanfare. But even at his most stripped down and commercial he remains a deeply compelling designer. A classic Canadian tuxedo has tiny embroidered spiders crawling all over it, varsity jackets and tailored coats are made in sheer vinyls, and hoodies are hybridized with cardigans and t-shirts. Even the most casual and basic of items—t-shirts and oxfords—are sliced apart and put back together with Frankenstein-esque seams. Think of them as bite-sized snacks, both for Undercover fans and for those in need of an unchallenging introduction—all the classics are here, waiting to be turned into a wardrobe.

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